We’re only a few hours away from the Academy of Art University Spring 2015 runway show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week! Can’t make it to the show tonight? No worries, we have an exclusive live webcast that will make you feel like you’ve got front-row seats! Show starts at 7pm EST/4pm PT!
Photo by Isabella Bejarano, MFA Photography (May 2013)
http://www.academyart.edu/fashionshow/webcast
Photo by Bob Toy
Spend a few minutes with MFA Fashion Design student Madison Detro and you’ll walk away with an inkling that she’s at the beginning of a design journey that could go in many directions. In the midst of a fast-approaching deadline to complete her runway collection for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York, Detro appeared focused and methodical, almost subdued. Yet it’s very clear that at 26, she’s already an overachiever whose creativity spills into multiple formats. There’s Detro the solo designer, an avid researcher who likes to experiment with shape and form. Inspired by the creations of Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier, as well as her formative undergraduate studies (she received a B.A. in Architecture from Cal Poly in 2008), her designs translate into garments that are unfussy, streamlined, and monochromatic – often free of zippers, snaps or fasteners. Then there’s Detro the collaborator, who thrives in partnerships. With her younger sister Malone, 24, she founded Moseley, a clothing and accessories line named after their great-grandmother, a fashion-forward San Franciscan who lived to be 99. And with her boyfriend, Conor Sweitzer, she collaborates on custom furniture and retail store fixtures in the work studio they share on Treasure Island. The thing at the bottom of her creative priority list, modelling, is sometimes hard to shake. At 5’10 and a size 2, she’s often a muse for photographer friends, and her sister Malone’s first choice when tailoring new designs. Detro’s New York-bound collection, featuring six looks, was inspired by what she called the “intriguingly simple complexities” of Le Corbusier’s Notre Dame du Haut in Ronchamp, France.
Photo by Jennifer Blot
“I did a lot of sketches, then began to make some of them in 3D samples,” she said. “It was a lot of back and forth between 2D and 3D, since I was designing as I was going. I had no idea what my collection was going to look like as a whole until I had about four looks done. But I just let the process guide me, and it felt super natural and instinctual.” Coveting the highest quality materials (it’s unlikely there will ever be a “Madison Detro for Target” line), she secured $5,000 through a Kickstarter campaign to purchase the leather for the collection. All of the pieces – from cape to jumpsuit to pull-over dress—are rendered in deep burgundy lambskin and calfskin and fit with her vision of a minimal aesthetic with some dramatic details. Detro’s fascination with architecture seems to frame everything she does. “I would say architecture gave me a real understanding of composition, including spatial relationships, proportions, and scale,” she said. Fashion School Director Simon Ungless agrees. “Madison stands out as a designer due to her training as an architect,” he said. “Her fashion design aesthetic is informed by a non-decorative approach to form and function in relationship to proportion and silhouette.”
Illustrated lineup of Detro’s Spring 2015 collection.
It would appear creativity is in her DNA. Her father is a cabinetmaker and her mother was constantly dreaming up craft projects for Detro and her five siblings when they were young. Today, one is a painter, another designs skateboards, and one works in special effects at Industrial Light & Magic – and there’s Madison and Malone, who are so close, they joke that they’re twins.
Growing up in Los Altos, Detro was “terrified” of cities. But she now seems to thrive on the buzz after studying in Paris (both Architecture and Fashion Design) and securing an internship in New York last year with designer Yigal Azrouel. She has also assisted at Alexandria von Bromssen Designs in San Francisco. Von Bromssen, another success story from the Academy’s MFA Fashion Design program, is best known for her work on Project Runway.
In 2012, Detro began doing work at Acrimony, a small retail clothing store not far from her Hayes Valley home. She initially approached the store’s owner, Jenny Chung, hoping for a part-time sales position. Instead, Chung hired her to do some merchandising make-overs. Detro, with her boyfriend’s help, designed a system of jewelry displays and unique, streamlined racks and shelves.
“Madison was able to create an innovative fixture solution that was both unique and functional,” Chung said. “Her vision is sharp, focused and encompassing of more than just the small space she was working with.”
Ironically, Chung has yet to see Detro’s clothing designs. But she’d be willing to buy from the up-and-coming designer in the future.
“If it fit, I would definitely consider it. I love her work,” Chung said.
Photo by Jennifer Blot
Betraying her own minimalist sensibility, Detro seems to have one funky fashion quirk: collecting over-the-top vintage coats and leather jackets. One side of her closet is filled with eclectic finds – ranging from an oversize mink to a blousy number with bat sleeves. Her favorite, a lucky flea market find, is a brown snakeskin jacket embellished with an African textile pattern.
It’s been ages since Detro has had time to browse for vintage treasures – and it’s hard to know if her schedule will ever lighten up. She’s no longer working 13-hour days preparing for Fashion Week, but her list of plans keeps expanding. Her first goal is to launch her own line, and down the road, develop a menswear line. A shoe collection isn’t out of the question, either. On top of it all, she and Sweitzer plan to open a restaurant together someday, collaborating on food and interior design.
So, to be safe, she refers to herself as simply a “designer.” A word that can’t begin to sum up what she does.
Written by Jennifer Blot
Photos by Randy Brooke/WireImage
Szu Chi Huang, MFA Fashion Design, hails from Taiwan where, before coming to Academy of Art University, she completed a BA in Costume Design. Her background in costumes led Szu to be inspired by traditional Japanese samurai armor. Szu’s collection translates her inspiration into modern fashion by using innovative construction techniques to achieve the three-dimensional feeling of armor that has been compiled from many small pieces. Szu used origami-folding techniques on leather and wove grosgrain ribbon in mesh fabric to mimic the woven texture of the samurai garments. The simple black and white color palette of her collection is a nod to traditional Japanese ink paintings and calligraphy.
Written by Tess Collins
Photos by Randy Brooke/WireImage
Die Zhou, MFA Fashion Design, hails from Wuhan, China. Die holds a BS Degree in Engineering in Gem and Material Technology and before beginning work on her MFA Degree she acted as Executive Editor for Blue Sock Publishing Company in Taiwan. For her Spring 2015 collection, Die took her inspiration from nature, translating the lines and shapes associated with butterflies into the silhouettes of her garments. The collection is focused around a light, fresh pastel color story and is executed in cotton-blend twill.
Written by Tess Collins
Photos by Randy Brooke/WireImage
Wei Bai, MFA Fashion Design, grew up in Chongqing, China. Having completed a BFA in Fine Arts and Graphic and Web Design, Wei worked as a graphic designer before undertaking her graduate degree in fashion. Wei’s collection features tomboyish, tailored silhouettes that are evocative of the neo-Edwardian Teddy Boy style that became popular in 1950s England. Garments are constructed in one-piece, although many give the illusion that they are separates.
Written by Tess Collins
Photos by Randy Brooke/WireImage
A collaborative Spring 2015 menswear collection was created by seven designers, including:
Written by Tess Collins
Images by Randy Brooke/WireImage
Madison Detro, MFA Fashion Design, was born and raised in Los Altos, California. Before pursuing her graduate degree in fashion, Madison earned her undergraduate degree in Architecture. During her fashion design internship at Yigal Azrouël she gained experience designing, styling and prepping the Fall 2014 collections. Madison’s Spring 2015 collection is fabricated mostly from lambskin leathers and calf suede, and explores geometries and imbalance as a catalyst for beauty. Intrigued by the oddities in Le Corbusier’s architectural work, Madison’s designs are reminiscent of the angles found in the architect’s famous chapel Notre Dame du Haut de Ronchamp.
Written by Tess Collins
Photos by Randy Brooke/WireImage
Mia Jianxia Ji, M.F.A. Fashion and Knitwear Design, grew up in Shangrao in the Jiangxi province of China. Mia’s design skills have earned her recognition on many occasions; in 2010 she won an honorary award in an international design competition held by the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) and Paris American Academy (PAA), and in 2008 she was a Second Degree scholarship winner in the Creative Sketch Competition held by her B.F.A. alma mater, the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology. Mia’s collection, which she has named “SILHOUKNIT,” uses the texture of knitted fabrics to evoke the shapes and feelings of Ana Rajcevic’s art collection “Animal – The Other Side Of Evolution.”
Did you miss Saturday’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week runway Show? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered! 12 talented Academy of Art University designers brought down the house with six collections, including a collaborative menswear collection and five individual collections, all of which fit right in on fashion’s biggest stage! We hope you enjoy the show and experience the excitement of Fashion Week and the triumph of the School of Fashion’s very own talented designers!
By Tess Collins
Photo By Randy Brooke/ Wire Image
It’s hard to believe that it’s already been days since 12 Academy of Art University School of Fashion designers debuted their Spring 2015 collections during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center.
In case you missed it—here is a quick recap of the show, so please follow the jump to read more!
A half hour before the show, the Lincoln Center Theater was packed with style-savvy fashion editors, industry press, world-famous fashion icons such as celebrity photographer Nigel Barker and supermodel Shaun Ross and of course, proud families and friends of the designers. It was another full house for the University to say the least.
Nigel Barker, Photo By Randy Brooke
Sparsely lit by the runway spotlight, model Stephanie Joy Field opened the 10th season of Academy of Art University show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Models walked out with a stunning linen and knitwear collection designed by Mia Jianxia Ji, M.F.A. Fashion and Knitwear Design. Drawing inspiration from Ana Rajcevic’s art collection, she used the texture of knitted fabrics to evoke the shapes and feelings of a unique visual interpretation of animal anatomy, suggesting strength, power and sensuality that takes humanity together through the shared journey of evolutionary fantasy.
Collection by Mia Jianxia Ji, M.F.A. Fashion and Knitwear Design, Photo by Randy Brooke
Designed by Wei Bai, M.F.A. Fashion Design, a mix of causal sportswear and tailored silhouettes announced the innovative collection that came the next. The menswear and womenswear were a perfect counterpart in the black silk collection that featured tomboyish, tailored silhouettes that were reminiscent of neo-Edwardian Teddy Boy style, and yet had a feminine twist with slightly flared dresses and special layers on the shoulders.
Collection by Wei Bai, M.F.A. Fashion Design, Photo by Randy Brooke
The collection by Madison Detro, M.F.A. Fashion Design, was intrigued by the angles found in the Le Corbusier‘s architectural work— the famous chapel Notre Dame du Haut de Ronchamp. Fabricated mostly from burgundy lambskin leathers and calf suede, the outfits were cleverly matched to leather sun visors, the savviest of spring accessories. Madison’s designs explored the development of contemporary cross-image in fashion and architecture. Geometry and imbalance as a catalyst for beauty suggested notions of mutation and evolution.
Collection by Madison Detro, M.F.A. Fashion Design, Photo by Randy Brooke
Inspired by the concept of “imagination traveling,” the collaborative Spring 2015 menswear collection chose an array of crisp, pastel prints that were a mishmash of patchwork. Made by an unprecedented seven M.F.A. Fashion Design students: Asiyat Tsalikova, Jihyun Kim, Jingci Wang, Liz Li, Max Lu, Yaqiong Zhou and Yin Yang, the collection is a series of beautiful, eye-popping mash-ups, including playful fabric combinations, vibrant color palettes and strong pattern mixing. The designers aimed to instill in men everywhere a sense of playfulness and friskiness for their wardrobes.
Spring 2015 menswear collection, Photo by Randy Brooke
Spring 2015 menswear collection, Photo by Randy Brooke
Die Zhou, M.F.A. fashion design, presented a decidedly Spring collection that was done in pale blues and other pastel colors. She took inspiration from the beauty of the natural environment, such as monarch butterflies and blooming flowers. A fabric collage technique added dimension and textural layering to the clothes. The garments juxtaposed soft, pastel-colored boucle fabrics with unexpectedly strong-shouldered silhouettes and built-up volume in jackets and trousers.
Collection by Die Zhou, M.F.A. fashion design, Photo By Randy Brooke
The final looks down the runway transported the audience from the modern New York City to traditional Japan. M.F.A. Fashion Designer, Szu Chi Huang,presented a collection that was designed for speed, travel and freedom of movement with her concept of translating traditional Japanese samurai armor into modern clothing. The intricate detailing of the clothes was the true standout element of this collection. She used leather and mesh woven together to mimic the texture of samurai garments, while achieving a three-dimensional feeling of armor that is compiled from many small pieces.
Collection By Szu Chi Huang, M.F.A. Fashion Designer, Photo By Randy Brooke
Everyone in the audience held up their cellphone cameras, snapping away as the last looks passed by. As the lights came up for the finale walk and designer bow, the Theater erupted into applause. The excitement exploded at the same time backstage—it was a celebration for the success of the show after many sleepless nights working on these unique collections. The designers all hugged each other, feeling a mixture of pure joy and utter exhaustion. Although the show was over, it’s just the beginning for these 12 talented designers.
Photo By Randy Brooke/ Wire Image
Written by: Dorren Du
From left to right, finalists David Lee, Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising; Anastasia Iafrate, Kent State University; Yuxi Bi, Savannah College of Art and Design; Ou Ma, Fashion Institute of Technology; Sharon Moon, Rhode Island School of Design; and Jenny Hoang, Academy Of Art University.
On September 4th at Lincoln Center, Supima, a non-profit organization, held its annual Supima Design Competition dedicated to promoting the use of Pima cotton. Committed to giving young talent a chance to show their work on the runway, Supima chose six senior college students to create collections and compete at a runway show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York City. From floral patterns to color blocking to bold silhouettes, the designs were truly inspired.
A look from Jenny Hoang’s collection
The competition was hosted by top model Coco Rocha along with guest judges Bryanboy of BryanBoy.com, stylist Isabel Dupre, Tom Fitzgerald and Lorenzo Marquez of TomAndLorenzo.com, Natalie Joos of TalesOfEndearment.com, W Magazine’s Fashion Market & Accessories Director Karla Martinez, Phil Oh of StreetPeeper.com, consultant Roopal Patel, fashion designer Marcia Patmos, stylist Mary Alice Stephenson and stylist Anya Ziourova. The live runway event featured music by DJ Mad Marj (Marjorie Gubelmann).
A look from Jenny Hoang’s collection.
From Academy of Art University, Jenny Hoang, BFA Fashion Design alumna, was selected to create a collection and compete for the $10,000 prize. Raised in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, and Oregon, Hoang is a former CFDA Award winner. She presented outstanding, fresh and unique pieces which she describes as “feminine yet powerful and fierce.”
A look from Jenny Hoang’s collection.
Pima cotton was the basic fabric with which the finalists were required to design their collections. Hoang found the cotton to be a bit of an obstacle at first, but over time she saw the fabric as a fun challenge. “Cotton is not typically an eveningwear material, but working with the fabric helped me think outside the box in term of design and construction,” Hoang explained. “The fabric was just fantastic. I could do so many things with it and it still kept its shape and quality.”
A look from Jenny Hoang’s collection.
With the help of her design instructors, Hoang built the collection step by step, starting first with the fabric. By dyeing the fabric and then using a bleaching technique on certain areas, Hoang achieved a textile reminiscent of Batik fabrics and transformed plain cotton into a textile that was appropriate for luxury evening gowns. The whole collection was fashioned in a monochromatic plum palette.
The silhouettes in Hoang’s collection were inspired by Megatron from the movie “Transformers.” Structural volume in the shoulders reflected the idea of transformation, giving each garment a strong presence on the runway.
A look from Jenny Hoang’s collection.
Although Anastasia Iafrate from Kent State University was named the winner of the competition, Hoang was thrilled to have had the opportunity to compete. “I had never shown at fashion week before, and it was exhilarating to present my own designs on the New York Fashion Week runway.”
A fan of Giorgio Armani, Hoang hopes to one day be a designer for the Italian fashion house. Hoang’s talent and passion are clear, and with a drive to never stop learning and improving her skills, we are sure that she’ll wow us on the runway for seasons to come.
Runway Photos by Ze Takahashi & Olivier Claisse/FirstView
By Doreen Du, MFA Fashion Merchandising
Shot by David Dooley. Aveda and MAC PRO team artists work side by side to get models runway ready.
As one can imagine, the scene backstage at a major fashion show is exceptionally fast paced, with a huge number of people working to complete varied tasks all within a short span of time. The Academy of Art University show was no different from what I had imagined, and the controlled chaos backstage was a sight to see.
Among the talented individuals putting in tons of work backstage was Victor Cembellin, the lead makeup artist for the show. Together with the MAC PRO team, Cembellin created a minimal, ethereal look to complement the Spring 2015 collections. With over 20 years of industry experience, Cembellin’s credits include freelance editorial makeup artist, educator at the Academy of Art University, and also Senior Makeup Artist for North America at M.A.C. Cosmetics.
By Randy Brooke/WireImage
Cembellin’s extensive experience and knowledge are an exceptional asset for Academy of Art University students who wish to further their career in the beauty world. “I initially became involved with the Academy of Art University after leading the makeup team during New York Fashion Week several years ago, back when the tents were still in Bryant Park. Upon returning home to San Francisco – I was born and raised in the Bay Area – I shot several covers and editorials for 180 Magazine.”
Cembellin was then approached by the Academy to teach a course solely dedicated to hair and makeup, which he teaches alongside hair stylist Joel Cortes. Cembellin gushes that he loves working with other creatives and, “interfacing with students at the Academy of Art University gives me the opportunity to share my lifetime of industry experience as the embark upon their creative paths.”
Shot by David Dooley. Head hairstylist Jon Reyman demonstrates the chosen hairstyle to the Aveda team.
Collaboration is the key to a successful beauty concept, Cembellin reminds me. Hair and makeup are decided upon as a team, “In the case of New York Fashion Week and the Academy of Art University show, the hair and makeup team met with Simon Ungless, Executive Director of the School of Fashion, two or three days prior to the show for something called a test. One female model and one male model are secured in order to actualize various hair and makeup visions for the show. The process is finalized with pictures that are taken for reference and to assist the backstage hair and makeup teams on the day of the show.”
It was during these tests that look for the show, which Cembellin dubbed “Puritanical Minimalism,” began to take shape. With this look, the models were “meant to feel slightly sorrowful with their sculpted cheekbones and glossy stained eyelids. Rather than ‘playing into the pretty,’ we focused on the architecture of each models face,” explained Cembellin.
By David Dooley
Just as designers pull inspiration from multiple sources, so did the beauty team. Cembellin explained that the inspiration for the makeup came courtesy of Ungless, and ranged from “pictures of Greek marble statues to movie stills from the movie Jane Eyre.” He was then able to conceptualize a look that fell within this creative vision while also tying in with modernity and current trends. Complementing the minimal makeup was a sleek, almost wet-looking hairstyle dreamed up by hair guru Jon Reyman for Aveda.
By David Dooley. The Aveda team styles a model’s hair.
Each station backstage was masterfully set up for efficient, speedy work. To get every beauty aspect covered in the short time allotted, multiple artists worked on one model simultaneously. One artist worked on makeup while another perfected the model’s coif, and yet another artist was hard at work on manicures and pedicures. Although at times the beauty area backstage seemed hectic, the masterful, sculpted makeup lent the models an ethereal peace as they walked the runway.
Photo by David Dooley. Models in looks by Mia Jianxia Ji, MFA Fashion and Knitwear Design, prepare to take the runway.
Written by Alexa Palacios, BFA Fashion Journalism
Photo by John Perez. Nigel Barker addresses the audience at the 180 Degrees of Fashion Symposium.
Four hours before the Academy of Art University fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, the School of Fashion held their very first fashion symposium at The New York Public Library for the Performing Arts. Keanan Duffty, Senior Director of Fashion Merchandising, talked with internationally renowned fashion photographer Nigel Barker to share both of their valuable insights and experiences in the fashion industry.
You may know Nigel Barker as one of the judges on the hit CW Network show “America’s Next Top Model” with Tyra Banks or as the host of “The Face” with Naomi Campbell. Being a noted fashion photographer, his career did not begin behind the camera but actually started in front.
Barker spent ten years as a top male fashion model, walking for many powerful fashion houses such as Giorgio Armani and Jean Paul Gautier, while traveling the world to pursue his career. As a model, Barker grew an intense love for fashion and in the mid 90’s he decided to step back from in front of the camera and use his knowledge and unique perspective of the industry to take on a new career path as a photographer.
Shot by Ho Ting Shiu. Nigel Barker reviews a student’s photography portfolio after the symposium.
For many people, jumping around careers between modeling and photography seems to be a dead end; however, Barker has no fear to venture out to every facet of the fashion industry. “Don’t limit yourself,” said Barker. “Many people limit themselves to what they think they can do.” Barker didn’t stop at his success with his modeling career; instead, he dared to follow his passion and accepted challenges along the way. “Everyone has something to contribute to this world; it is up to you to take the first move.”
“Do things with passion or don’t do it at all,” Barker added. “Whether you’re thinking about starting a fashion magazine, or just thinking about what career path to choose, it’s important that you follow your passion. That enthusiasm is very powerful. When you can combine it with your work, you are setting yourself up well for achieving true success. When we are enthusiastic and proud of the work we do, the better equipped we’ll be to overcome the obstacles that will surely arise in the process of moving up in a career.”
Barker also expressed to the audience that confidence, not conceit, is a very critical attribute, regardless of your age. His confidence came from hardworking nonstop for everything he did and putting 100% into his work.
“At the end of the day, no one is going to hold your hand and tell you everything is going to be fine…” Barker also encouraged everyone to believe in themselves and what they have been doing because if they don’t, no one else will.
“Working in the fashion industry—it requires pretty much continual mental and physical effort— a lot of patience, understanding, flexibility and most of all, communication,” said Barker.
At the end of the symposium, Barker and Keanan also shared their opinions on how digital era has changed the photographic landscape in terms of building a brand or name. “Currently, people with all kinds of social media outlets can easily have access to connect to the world, which makes the process easier and yet more competitive,” explained Duffty.
Shot by John Perez. Keanan Duffty, Senior Director of Fashion Merchandising, and Nigel Barker — at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
The fact that millions of users worldwide are on Instagram and Twitter, reflects a broader shift from print toward a digital age, which targets users only on their smartphones. Both Keanan and Nigel suggested we all keep up with the digital world and always be thinking ahead as we all know one thing about the fashion industry— one minute you’re in, the next minute you’re out.
By Doreen Du, MFA Fashion Merchandising
Photo by David Dooley. Models wait backstage for their runway entrance.
As you might guess, fashion shows are not a low-fuss event. It takes a huge team to pull together a successful show; every single facet of the fashion industry works to put on a successful show that lasts for just 15 minutes.
In the front of the house, the vibe is cool, calm and collected. The music and lights go up and models walk the runway in a zen-like state. Even if they take a spill, they just act like that was all part of the show. In most cases, everything goes off without a hitch and the show is done before you know it.
The chaos of backstage, however, is in sharp contrast with the serenity of front of house. Makeup artists and hair stylists scramble to get the models ready in time, designers hurriedly fix hems and steam garments, dressers speedily undress and redress models, and a throng of journalists moves through the crowded space photographing, interviewing and filming the designers as they work.
Photo by David Dooley. Mia Jianxia Ji, MFA Fashion Design and Knitwear Design, multitasking while she answers reporter questions backstage.
Today I’m pleased to offer up an exclusive, behind-the-scenes look of all the chaos, fabulousness, and fun that went down backstage at the Academy of Art University Spring 2015 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show.
The preparations backstage started hours before the runway show. From hair and makeup to last-minute garment alterations and runway rehearsals, the models, beauty team, stylists and press were all on-site long before guests started filing in to the Theater at Lincoln Center for the show. Working backstage was definitely a team sport, it was not uncommon to see a group of ten people hurriedly working on just one model to get her runway ready.
Photo by Randy Brooke/WireImage
Amidst the chaos, however, was a sense of zen.
It wasn’t a dramatic scene at all—the designers didn’t yell at the producer, the producer didn’t yell at the hair and makeup artists, and the hair and makeup artists didn’t yell at the models. Everyone backstage said “please” and “thank you” all the time, even though they were working under intense pressure and a tight deadline. Seeing this just reinforced my belief that politeness and professionalism are the key to getting the best out of any team.
Photo by David Dooley. Max Lu, MFA Fashion Design, is all smiles backstage.
For a long time, my biggest MBFW misconception was that fashion industry people are pretentious and entitled, as they are so often depicted in the media. At the Academy’s fashion show this was unequivocally not the case. All the people I saw working were by and large the loveliest, most creative, down-to-earth, most relentlessly hard-working group of professional individuals I have ever met.
I love the dynamic vibe of backstage! It’s difficult to put in words the feeling of being among the diverse talent that converges inside just a few hours to execute the perfect fashion show. The excitement and the nerves, the chaos and harmony; once the show began, the outpouring of positive energy backstage was all encompassing.
Photo by David Dooley. From left to right: Mia Jianxia Ji, MFA Fashion and Knitwear Design; Wei Bai, MFA Fashion Design; Yin Yang, MFA Fashion Design; Max Lu, MFA Fashion Design; Jingci Wang, MFA Fashion Design; and Yaqiong Zhou, MFA Fashion Design.
Working backstage taught me the importance of planning and logistics, thinking on my feet, clear communication and again, teamwork. Be efficient. Focus. Enjoy the moment. This produces the best work.
Sure, it seems exhausting to work in a fast-paced, high-energy environment that is filled with nearly every type of character; however, there’s no better feeling than seeing all of that hard work come together as a look goes down the runway.
Photo by David Dooley .Front row, left to right: Liz Li, MFA Fashion Design; Yaqiong Zhou, MFA Fashion Design; Die Zhou, MFA Fashion Design; Szu Chi Huang, MFA Fashion Design; Jihyun Kim, MFA Fashion Design Menswear.Middle row, left to right: Madison Detro, MFA Fashion Design; Mia Jianxia Ji, MFA Fashion and Knitwear Design; Gonbee Tanaka, 3D Design Coordinator; Wei Bai, MFA Fashion Design. Back row, left to right: Max Lu, MFA Fashion Design; Jingci Wang, MFA Fashion Design.
Yes, this fashion show was a whirlwind, but it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I’m sure the 12 designers will never forget!
By Doreen Du, MFA Fashion Merchandising
On September 4th at Lincoln Center, six lucky designers presented their collections at the annual Supima Design Competition fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Our own BFA Fashion Design alumna Jenny Hoang was selected to create a collection for the competition, and her Megatron-inspired eveningwear looks transformed plain cotton into luxury fabric that wowed on a high-fashion runway.
With a $10,000 prize on the line, the designers brought their A-game the runway show. Don’t just take our word for it, though, watch the show yourself!
Come join Beyond The Front Row this Thursday, September 25th for the first general meeting of the year. Information and beverages will be shared from 6:30-7:30 in Room M06 at 625 Polk Street! Beyond the Front Row is an organization for students at The Academy of Art University who are interested in Fashion and the Fashion Industry. The club allows social networking as well as a number of different opportunities to work at Fashion and Charitable Events. Read more about the club here and learn more this Thursday at the meeting.
MFA Fashion and Knitwear Designer Mia Jianxia Ji’s collection.
The twelve Academy of Art University School of Fashion designers chosen to show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) know a thing or two about determination, attention to detail, and harnessing their boundless creativity for a very focused use.
Given the coveted opportunity to display this creativity on one of fashion’s most noted stages—The Theater at Lincoln Center— the designers spent the week ahead of the Spring 2015 MBFW show in a quaint New York City studio prepping and perfecting their collections to ensure all garments were runway ready.
MFA Fashion Designer Szu Chi Huang’s collection.
I headed down to the studio to observe firsthand just what goes on behind the scenes in the days before a fashion show.
When the elevator doors opened into the studio space, I was welcomed by racks and racks of gorgeous clothes, the tangible evidence of the designers’ sleepless nights and countless hours of hard work.
Designers hard at work in the studio.
I made my way through the front room, past a panel of model agency reps in the midst of model castings, and found myself in the designer workroom.
Although the room was mostly quiet, the excited energy was palpable. The designers went to and from each of the work stations in the small room, quickly moving between sewing machines, ironing boards, steamers, and a table spread with tools of the trade. With twelve designers and a handful of assistants in such a small space, watching their movements was like watching a coordinated dance.
Menswear collection collaborators Jingci Wang and Max Lu, both MFA Fashion Design, consult patterns.
The designers worked amongst themselves and with Academy 3D design coordinators to complete each intricately hand-crafted garment. “The experience in New York is good and the studio is very professional. We all work together and sometimes help eachother out, so really we every tool we need. It’s very fun because we’ve never done anything like this,” said Mia Jianxia Ji, MFA Fashion and Knitwear Design.
Mia Jianxia Ji, MFA Fashion and Knitwear Design, puts finishing touches on a coat.
To the layman, the clothes on the dress forms looked complete, but after watching the designers work for a time I began to realize that each hem adjustment, fabric applique, and stitch were crucial for the finished garment to look just-so when it was sent down the runway.
Madison Detro, MFA Fashion Design, at a sewing machine in the workroom
I sat, as out of the way as I could be, and watched the designers work for the rest of the afternoon. What struck me most was the seriousness of the group—their laser-foci on getting every detail just right was clearly indicative of the reverence they had for the opportunity to present at such an internationally respected event. The designers went on tweaking, stitching and steaming and I quietly let myself out, more excited than ever to see the fruits of their labor walk the MBFW runway.
Written by Alexa Palacios
http://idressthereforeiamla.com
Instagram: @IDressThereforeIAm
Rinat Brodach, 2010 BFA Fashion Design alumna, has been very busy since she was awarded with a year long internship in Paris after her senior year. Since then she attended The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, has been published in Emerging Fashion Designers 2 (by Sally Congdon-Martin), and started her own brand in New York City. She took time out of her busy schedule to talk about her debut fashion show at Nolcha Fashion Week. She spoke with FSD about her feelings and inspirations surrounding the collection.
FSD: What fabrics do you primarily use?
RB: I used a few different kinds of Jerseys with some amazing textures on them (many thought I used leather), Cotton Satin, and Cupero.
FSD: What there a general theme or inspiration that you used?
RB: Yes. The collection is called “How to expose the Heart”. It was inspired by the dilemma of exposing and protecting the heart. I wear my heart on my sleeve and so the inspiration was taken from everyday life where the heart is exposed, passionate, happy, sad, scared and vulnerable. Using boning to enhance the heart areas as a metaphor for the rib cage which creates a natural shield for the heart. The draping around the areas of the heart show us different situations and feelings from exposing the heart to protecting the heart. Sometimes art doesn’t make sense, ’cause it comes from the heart.
FSD: Do you have a signature look that will be used in collections to come or do you plan on totally reinventing yourself?
RB: I think draping is a big part of me and my work. This is something to look out for in the future; my twist on draping with classic garments.
FSD: How do you feel a couple of weeks after your show?
RB: I feel great and bizarre at the same time. The joy of working so hard for months, and then seeing something being brought to life. I think its a similar feeling to giving birth. I feel like I gave birth.
Photo by Mark Elzey
At fashion shows, there is a barrier between what the designer presents to the audience and the madness that goes into that final presentation. That barrier could be a number of things, it could be a wall, a curtain, maybe even a screen. Whatever the blockade is, its purpose is to keep onlookers from seeing what’s going on behind it. However, behind the scenes is often where the most interesting and beautiful moments of a show happen. Backstage is where last minute changes to designs are made, where models transform from everyday people into high fashion works of art, and behind the scenes is where designers careers are made. What comes down the runway for the audience to see is a result of the actions that have taken place in the back of the house, a result of all of the madness that occurs before those few perfect minutes where it all flows together. Mark Elzey, a fashion photographer, has broken down that barrier to give us a look into what only a few are able to see backstage at the Academy of Art University Spring 2015 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show.
Photo of Mark Elzey taken by Omi Tanaka
Mark Elzey, a photographer, was trusted with the exciting challenge of taking pictures backstage at a number of shows at New York Fashion Week, including The Academy of Art University’s show. The results were truly beautiful. Even though Elzey’s pictures speak for themselves, he was gracious enough to give an interview, allowing us to see more than what is represented just though his lens.
Photo by Mark Elzey
Tess Collins: How did you get your start in photography?
Mark Elzey: I got into photography at first by curiosity. I’ve been an artist since I was 5 years old. Before photography, I was a graphic designer. One of my friends had a camera at their party, it was a Canon Rebel DSLR. I had never seen such great pictures come from a camera, I wanted to try it and see what happened. Once I picked up the camera, it was like everything started to make sense. I believe it was simply destiny. I first started out by taking pictures of everything. Some days I would stay out for a full 36 hours and turn off my phone. It was just me and the camera. After doing this non-stop for a couple years I started to become one with my environment. I was throwing all that I knew down the drain and starting fresh. Feeling the wind, hearing the birds, etc. Doing that really allows me to see exactly what I’m doing, almost like putting myself in the perspective of a Martian. It’s like being on the Earth for the first time seeing and how beautiful it is.
Photo by Mark Elzey
TC: Your role during Fashion Week was to take portraits and candids backstage, which do you prefer; candids or staged photography?
ME: I really like both, but if I had to choose between one or the other, I’d say candids. I believe if it’s staged, everyone already has a sense of what they are going to see and get. Candids, you capture them in the moment of something. You don’t know what to expect when this happens. The results vary from photographer to photographer, how much they get the models to open up or even share their energy with them. I love the unexpected and I love change, so I definitely would have to go with candids.
TC: How are you able to capture an emotion through your photographs? How do you get the shot at just the right moment?
ME: I believe emotion is the essence of being human. I love rawness, true emotion, and naturalness. I really don’t like when models are posing. It takes away from everything that I embrace in human qualities. I try to get them to focus on their surroundings and spending time with themselves.This allows me to observe them in a different manner. I believe you have to be completely open to your models or subjects to really see and understand something more than what is being given or shown. Sometimes you just have a conversation with someone, and depending how open you are with them, they will show you the true side of who they are, and show what others haven’t seen within them. We live in a negative world, but everyone loves positive energy and those who are willing to open up. I used to be shy, but I knew if I wanted to be great, I had to overcome my fears and focus on what mattered most, my dream. I don’t believe its hard to achieve, I just believe to capture real emotion you have to ‘want’ to understand who or what you are shooting.
Photo by Mark Elzey
TC: Any tips on how to get the shot at just the right moment?
ME: Always being on alert, and not to look at the photo you’ve just taken. One of my greatest mentors, Jeff Turner, helped me overcome that. I used to always want to look at the back of my camera after a great shot to see it. But then he showed me all the things I missed while I was looking at the pictures I’ve already taken. So I’ve learned to wait until I’m completely done shooting to go over all of my images from the shoot. Human emotion happens at the speed of light, you never know when its going to happen.
Photo by Mark Elzey
TC: Can you describe the vibe backstage right before the Academy of Art University’s show? Would you have known it was a student showcase based on the backstage vibe?
ME: I think the vibe was awesome. I was a little surprised that the models were so open with each other, it made working with them a bit easier than at the other shows. The Academy of Art University designers in particular were very nice, open, and receptive. They may be students, but they presented themselves in a very professional manner. A lot of backstage stuff is very similar to other shows, all shows can be a rushed at times but I believe the Academy of Art University fashion show did really well as far as preparation backstage.
TC: What were your overall impressions of the Academy of Art University’s show?
ME: I absolutely loved the show. The designers all had inspiring collections. It was exciting to see, especially to shoot. There was a lot of ‘WOW’ factor. The energy was amazing- I felt I could shoot there 10 hours, no problem. It was almost as if the energy in New York city came backstage with us. It was incredible.
Photo by Mark Elzey
To see more of Photographer Mark Elzey’s work, visit his website.
Written by Tess Collins
Celebrate Fall fashion in October with these upcoming events! Take a look at the great stuff that’s coming up in the Bay area!
Fall Fashion Fest, Thursday October 9th, 5-8 pm
What: Fall Fashion Fest
When: Thursday, October 9th, 5-8 pm
Where: Union Square
Cost: Enjoying the festivities is free but if you want to take advantage of the special offers purchase tickets here!
Enjoy a night celebrating fashion with pop-up shops, discounts at participating stores, style tips and fashion shows!
SFC Grand Opening Flyer for October 3rd Store Opening
San FranCycle Grand Opening Event
What: 20% off in store for three hours only!
When: Friday, October, 3rd, 6-9 pm
Where: 702 Larkin St. (Corner of Larkin and Ellis), San Francisco
Swap-O-Rama, every third Saturday, 1-4pm
What: Swap-O-Rama
When: Every 3rd Saturday of the month (next one is October 18th)
Where: 1960 Mandela Parkway, Oakland, CA
Cost: FREE!
Reuse and find new life in your old clothes! Bring clothes and ideas and share DIY tips for re-purposing clothing, furniture and more!
The Arts of Fashion Foundation fashion show, Tuesday, October 28th, 6:30-8:30
What: The Arts of Fashion Foundation fashion show
When: Tuesday,October 28th, 6:30-8:30 pm
Where: Bently Reserve
Cost: Ticket prices vary $75-$125, purchase tickets here!
A nonprofit organization celebrating fashion by showcasing 50 selected fashion design students! Profits will help benefit the Arts of Fashion Foundation educational programs and student scholarships
Don’t miss out on these Fall fashion events!
By Tess Collins
