Thursday, January 8^th:

Bright and early—7 AM— Busara and I got up and out of our very comfortable, warm beds to get ready for the Internship Fair! We met Michelle and Martin next door at Demarco Coffee – we all needed a little kick from the previous day’s events. We walked through the windy, freezing cold weather to the Internship Fair located at another hotel.

As we arrived I, of course, spotted the snacks immediately… and more coffee? Hallelujah!

Numerous companies had tables set up with their recruiters and it was such a privilege that we got an opportunity to network with so many companies. Among the companies offering internships were Kohl’s, NYDJ, The Doneger Group, Randa Accessories, Nautica, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Macy’s, Under Armour, Global Brands Group, Men’s Wearhouse, Ross and Perry Ellis. So many! This was such a great way to connect and network with so many internship opportunities and even possibly, future employers. The best part is that all the recruiters were very excited to be there to talk to me and were all so welcoming! For someone like me who was a little iffy about networking, my experience in those couple of days had changed my perspective – it’s really not scary at all. In fact, it was great to learn so much more about the companies that were attending.

After the internship fair – I made sure to note down which companies I had spoken to and wanted to reach out to within 24 hours. We’d been advised to contact key people not long after we had met them at the fair in order to show that we were interested in their internship opportunities – and we were!

Wide-eyed and ready to explore – I checked out of the hotel with Busara and continued on with my adventure in the big city. I stayed another three days to explore as much of NYC as I could and even as I was leaving Sunday afternoon, I still wanted more! I vowed that I would find a reason to come back to such a beautiful city with the most amazing energy.

This was one of my best adventures yet and I’m so grateful for the YMA Organization for allowing me the opportunity to visit New York. Saying it was an inspiring trip is an understatement – it gave me so much encouragement to keep working hard and to keep learning. It really was more than just about winning the $5,000 scholarship; it was about someone telling me, “Thank you for working so hard, keep believing in what you love to do. It’ll always be worth it.”

So, next fall, when the YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund (FSF) Case Study comes out again – apply! I’ve never won anything before this (not even those scratch off cards!), but I worked hard on this project and it was absolutely worth it.

As with a lot of things in life, you really never know unless you try and I encourage you to try because it could be you going on an amazing New York adventure next year – and believe me, it’s an experience of a lifetime.

Written by Celina Enriquez, BFA Fashion Merchandising

Farnaz Golnam, photo by Bob Toy.

Farnaz Golnam, MFA Fashion Design, was born and raised in Kermanshah, Iran. Before coming to Academy of Art University, Farnaz earned a bachelor degree in Civil Engineering in her home country.

A look from Farnaz’s collection.

For her Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week collection, Farnaz drew inspiration from the natural and incorporated 3D details from flowers into the garments. The collection has a sculptural quality, which is enhanced by voluminous panels and seam detailing used throughout.

A look from Farnaz’s collection.

The collection is executed in solid grey and black wool, and features needle felting details that play with viewers’ perception of depth and dimension.

A look from Farnaz’s collection.

Fashion School Daily: What is fashion to you?

Farnaz Golnam: Fashion to me is making wearable beauty.

FSD: What is your style motto?

FG: My design identity is “creativity plus simplicity” (CPS) and my hands are trained to transfer imagination into beautiful reality.

FSD: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

FG: Alexander McQueen, because of his amazing creative talent.

Sketch from Erin A.F. Milosevich’s lineup.

Erin A.F. Milosevich, MFA Fashion Design, is proof that big inspiration can come from the tiniest moment.

Born in Champaign, Illinois, Erin grew up in Carmel, Indiana, before returning to her birthplace to attend the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. There she received her BFA in Fashion Design before coming to San Francisco to pursue her masters degree at Academy of Art University.

Feeling lost and uninspired, Erin was encouraged by her professor to clear her head by taking a walk. It was during that walk that she found the inspiration for her entire collection— a collection impressive enough to get a coveted spot at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Her inspiration came from a simple curtain, waving free from an open window above a corner store. The restraint from the frame and the flowing wind trying to free the curtain stirred Erin to play with the capture and release of her fabrics.

Erin A.F. Milosevich, photo by Bob Toy.

Wool, sequins and lace dominate this collection. The clothes are fitted on the top, yet give way to a looser feel the further down the body you go. A curtain freely flowing from a window can easily be seen in the designs, but in a way that will make people want to wear them! The neutral, light color palette takes a backseat to the movement and silhouette of the clothes. The handmade crinolines used on every look are just one of the things that will set this collection apart from the pack.

Sketch from Erin A.F. Milosevich’s lineup.

Erin is going to set the fashion world ablaze when she debuts at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week! Get to know her before she gets famous and read what she had to share with Fashion School Daily.

 Fashion School Daily: What is the best advice you have ever received?

Erin A.F. Milosevich: The grass isn’t always greener on the other side; it’s just greener where you water it.

FSD: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

EM: Delirious 30 second dance parties after being in the studio alllll day!

FSD: What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

EM: Be prepared to work harder than you ever have before! It’s intense, but awesome to see your collection come to life.

FSD: Ignoring the cost, what item of clothing / bag / designer would you buy right now?

EM: A Dolce & Gabbana F/W13 crown, because it’s just too amazingly ridiculous!

FSD: What is your greatest style regret?

EM: The forest green V-neck sweater I wore all the time in junior high.

FSD: Which items in your closet do you most use?

EM: Black V-neck tee and my denim skinnies.

Sketch from Erin Milosevich’s lineup.

FSD: What is your style motto?

EM: Do what you want. Rules are silly. Wear what makes you feel good.

FSD: Which talent would you most like to have?

EM: I have secret pop star aspirations…

FSD: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

EM: I love the easy French chic style of ladies like Lou Doillon, Charlotte Gainsbourg, and Emmanuelle Alt. I love Daphne Guinness’ dedication to couture.

Erin A.F. Milosevich may regret her forest green V-neck sweater, but it is safe to say she doesn’t regret taking that walk her professor suggested. Keep up with Erin Milosevich all throughout Fashion Week on Fashion School Daily and see her collection come to life at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week!

By Tess Collins

Sketch of lineup for Kevin C. Smith and Andrea Nyberg’s collection.

Kevin C. Smith, MFA Menswear Design, and Andrea Nyberg, MFA Textile Design, are putting the final preparations together for their collaborative menswear collection that will show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Kevin C. Smith, photo by Bob Toy.

Kevin C. Smith, a California native who was born in Walnut Creek and grew up in Sacramento, has created menswear designs based around the ideas of light and volume. He used Christo’s Running Fence as well as vintage light bulbs and candle smoke for inspiration. The clothes are layered pieces that are engulfed by sheer, flowing overcoats. Kevin has a BFA degree in Art Studio from The University of California, Davis.

Andrea Nyberg, photo by Bob Toy.

The textiles in the collection are the brainchild of Andrea Nyberg, and they create a cloud-like atmosphere surrounding the menswear garments in the collection. The textiles were inspired by the idea of coming out of a fog and beginning to regain sight, and Andrea uses whites and blues that have a subtle, layered transparency to achieve this effect. Andrea Nyberg was born in Columbus, Ohio, and was raised in North Ridgeville, Ohio. She has a BFA in Fashion Design from The University of Cincinnati and has experience working with Fossil, Oshkosh B’Gosh and DSF Clothing Company.

Sketch of lineup for Kevin Smith and Andrea Nyberg’s collection.

As these two designers prepare for the biggest show of their lives they took a moment to chat with FSD about their favorite moments along the way, what garment they would buy if they had all the money in the world, and what their fashion mottos are!

Fashion School Daily: What is the best advice you have ever received?

Kevin C. Smith: If you do what you love, you’ll love what you do.

Andrea Nyberg: The hardest part is starting, but you just have to believe in yourself and your idea, work a little bit everyday and it will manifest.

 FSD: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

KCS: Working with creative friends and learning from wonderful instructors.

AN: Learning so many new technical skills really opened my mind to a lot of possibilities for the future of design.

FSD: What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

KCS: Be confident with what you have done and what you are capable of doing.

AN: Work really hard on editing and making your collections cohesive—it’s so important.

FSD: Ignoring the cost, what item of clothing / bag / designer would you buy right now?

KCS: Anything Kris Van Assche, Dries van Noten or an Hermes Alleretour bag.

AN: I really could use a new pair of black jeans!

Inspiration photo behind collection.

FSD: What is your greatest style regret?

KCS: I have no regrets!

AN: Getting paint on all of my clothes.

FSD: Which items in your closet do you most use?

KCS: Mainly the classics: button-down shirts with a nice pair of trousers. I do have an amazing trench coat I made in my GDS Menswear 3 class.

FSD: What is your style motto?

KCS: Whatever it is you do, own it.

AN: If you feel good, wear it.

FSD: Which talent would you most like to have?

AN: Making electronic music. I feel like I’d enjoy it but I have no idea how to use the technology.

FSD: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

KCS: James Dean because of his rebellious cool style that came so effortlessly, but he was also able to dress up in a classic tuxedo and look great.

AN: I love all people who are brave enough to be eccentric. People everyday on the street inspire me to make beautiful, new and exciting things for them to choose from and look at.

In no time at all, these two will get the opportunity to show the world what they are made of. Be sure to see their finished collections and follow their story at Fashion Week!

By Tess Collins

Newly appointed, Assistant Director of Fashion Journalism, Stephan Rabimov.

Meet Stephan Rabimov, the newly appointed Assistant Director of  the Fashion Journalism program. With a decade of experience in a plethora of mediums including both digital and print publishing, and industry knowledge in public relations, adept is an understatement. Rabimov is the founder of RABIMOV Public Relations, Executive Fashion Editor of Dot429 Magazine and Editor in-Chief of DEPESHA, a Russian ex-patriate fashion and arts magazine. He has also been a white knight for many an emerging designer orchestrating noteworthy runway debuts at New York,  St. Petersburg, Toronto and Vancouver Fashion Weeks and produced the first ever Russian Fashion Industry Presentation inside the Russian Consulate in New York City, where he’s lived on and off for the past twelve years. Considering Rabimov’s extensive curriculum vitae, there is little shock in the revelation that Fashion Journalism’s new Assistant Director has also been interviewed and published in Women’s Wear Daily, The Wall Street Journal, Forbes, CNN, Yahoo, the Examiner and the Huffington Post. On Friday, I asked him a few questions, these were his responses:

Malcolm Thomas: You have a Bachelor’s in Mathematics and a Master’s in International Affairs and Statistics, how did you get into fashion?

Stephen Rabimov: I am possibly one of the few people to have ever moved from Mathematics into Fashion; but then again, Anna Wintour moved from House & Garden into Vogue and she is doing fine.

MT: You seem to have strong ties to Russia and the Russian fashion industry, is that where you’re from?

SR: I am from a place Winston Churchill once called: “a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma.”

MT: As a journalist, a new media communications and public relations and marketing professional, how do you do it all?

SR: Sleep is overrated.

MT: What are you most excited about as the new addition to the Fashion Journalism team?

SR: 180 Magazine – it is one of the most high caliber publications I have ever seen, and I am thrilled to be a part of it.

MT: What’s in store for the Fashion Journalism department this year?

SR: Fashion. Journalism. Internships.

MT: What is the hardest lesson you learnt while working in fashion?

SR: I think the hardest lesson is yet to come. However, there was this one time when I had to pick up the broom and sweep the floors because the cleaning staff failed to show up and we needed to prepare for the event.  Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty.

MT: What is your advice to students looking to break into the business?

SR: Do it first, do it well. Ask later.

MT: What is one quirk, you’d like to share about yourself that no one knows?

SR: I march to my own beat.

Check out his latest Huffington Post article, here: http://huff.to/1DaIvkK 

Written by: Malcolm Thomas

Calling all students brand obsessed! Whether you’re a fashion journalism student or a fashion design or merchandising student with a love for storytelling, interest and passion for fashion/designer and name brands, prior experience shopping or selling on eBay, as well as an interest and love of shopping secondhand then this may be the perfect job for you! Goodwill Industries of San Francisco, San Mateo and Marin counties have several paid positions available for financial aid students at Goodwill  located on Van Ness and Mission. The position seems well-suited for fashion majors! Interest in or experience with art and collectibles and prior experience with digital cameras and photography, preferably Nikon experience is a plus. Must be computer savvy.

Name of the Position: eCommerce Associate

Number of Students Needed: 5  

Desired Start Date: ASAP

 Number of Hours Per Week:   10 – 20

Starting Pay Rate: $11.05 /hour

 Preferred Availability: Open Monday through Friday from 8:00a.m. to 4:30p.m.

Description of Job Duties/Role within the Organization:

•  The eCommerce Associate will assist in all aspects of preparing product for online sale. Product includes primarily used clothing, shoes, bags, accessories, jewelry, art, collectibles, musical instruments, and housewares.
•  The eCommerce Associate will shift tasks depending on daily needs. Possible tasks and assignments include:
•  Photo assisting: stuffing bags and propping them for photographs, dressing/undressing and rotating mannequin, taking photographs of clothing and bags.
• Logistics: packing product, labeling correctly, storing product in warehouse and pulling product for fulfillment team.
• Product placement: creating accurate and key word focused eBay ads for each item, measuring and describing product.
• Product evaluation: selecting product for online sale based on brand, condition, and overall value. Sorting product by condition, value, type.

 HOW TO APPLY

• Financial aid students only!
• Prepare a resume.
• Submit a Work Study application.
• Wait to hear from the Goodwill and let us know this position interests you.

We’re just under a week away from our Fall 2015 runway show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week! This season’s fourteen designers are putting the final touches on their collections, eagerly anticipating the moment all of their hard work will come to life on the runway.

Can’t make it to New York for the show? No problem! Put on something glam and tune in to watch the show live on Saturday, February 14 at 7pm EST/4pm PST. The live webcast will be available at www.academyart.edu/fashionshow/webcast.

Couldn’t make it out to New York Fashion Week to watch the Academy of Art University Fall 2015 runway show live? No problem! Sit down, put your feet up and prepare to be wowed by the gorgeous Fall 2015 collections!

Lights. Camera. Catwalk.

Design by Emmanuelle Ciara Jones and Ghazaleh Khalifeh.

There was a strange sort of magic culminating in Emmanuelle Ciara’s Jones debut collection. Perhaps it was voodoo. The ancient, mystical Afro-Caribbean practice which took its form in the threads of Ghazaleh Khalifeh’s African inspired textiles, and what to make of those brush stroke fabrics? They’re evocative of the late Jean-Michel Basquiat, the famed New York City painter known for playing with suggestive dichotomies such as wealth versus poverty, integration versus segregation, and inner versus outer experience in his work. From the black berets to the militant swag, this collection might just, “Put A Spell On You”.

Design by Christian Willman.

Like a Manhattan skyscraper Christian Willman’s woman stood tall. As for adjectives to describe the collection, there is a whole laundry list; clean, sleek, modern, elegant and futuristic to name a few. Inspired by installation artist Matt Calderwood, Willman’s sleeves were sharp enough to cut your throat and brazen enough to lie on the backs of many a hard edged, Park Avenue power players.

Design by Xiaowei Liu.

The work of Xiaowei Liu and Stella Xingyu Hu is a lesson in successful partnership. Liu’s combination of denim, cotton and leather is inspired by Boro, a type of Japanese indigo patchwork. Xingyu’s faux rainbow colored leather tape incorporated in her menswear jumpers were inspired by the Rubik’s Cube. Together a marriage of the traditional with the unexpected created something deliciously entertaining to watch and to wear.

Design by Xiaowei Liu and Stella Xingyu Hu.

Design by Han Tang and Tam Nguyen.

It’s to the darkroom for Han Tang, whose wool and silk collection was inspired by the haunting photographs of Italian photographer Yvonne De Rosa. Textile designer, Tam Nguyen, took to creating fabrics, which sought to emulate decaying and chipping surfaces of abandoned houses. The same destitute beauty captured in De Rosa’s “Crazy God” series of the dilapidated and forgotten.

Prepare to be bewitched by Erin A.F. Milosevich’s rendition of bohemian couture. Meant to illustrate the balance between movement and restraint, which is portrayed through the juxtaposition of flowing fabric with constructed silhouettes, each look included a handmade crinoline.

“It’s Only Heritage” was the title of Mexican born, Paulina Susana Romero Valdez’s ethnic inspired, baroque collection of wool brocade, wool tweed, silk, cotton and hand-dyed leather accented with traditional Mexican embroidery. Two words: aristocratic spice.

Design by Kevin C. Smith and Andrea Nyberg.

Clear as a vanilla sky, Kevin C. Smith took inspiration from Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s 1976 24.5 mile long installation art piece, “Christo’s Running Fence”. A menswear collection built for the hybrid man. Textile Designer, Andrea Nyberg added satire and sophistication. Her inspiration was as light hearted as the smoke, condensation and dew that were integrated throughout the collection.

Design by Ozanhan Kayaoglu.

Power and social order lie in the sharp tailoring and rusted prison metal prints of Ozanhan Kayaoglu. Inspired by French philosopher Michel Foucault’s use of panopticon prison architecture, one can’t help but wonder if this is what Alcatraz muses would look like

Design by Farnaz Golnam.

Your eyes do not deceive you. Farnaz Golnam’s inventive four-look collection is all it takes to make you reconsider how you’ve looked at clothes in the past. Like clay, Golnam’s mind-bending garments are sculpted to skew your perception of depth and dimension.

Design by Xue Yang and Oom Terdpravat.

Expressions of oppressive Chinese practices such as foot binding take the form of a cocoon silhouette in Xue Yang and Oom Terdpravat’s bold statement on women’s rights via colorful embroideries and tribal inspirations.

Fade to black.

By Malcolm Thomas

It was all about transformation at the Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show. Sculpting and shaping were the hot beauty trends being applied to models.

The scene backstage at Lincoln Center on the day of the show, Valentine’s day,  was extremely fast paced yet organized, with a huge number of people working to complete varied tasks all within a short span of time.

Each station backstage was arranged in a systematic way for efficient, speedy work for this large scale production. To get every facial feature covered in the short time allotted, multiple artists worked on each model simultaneously. One makeup artist worked on makeup while a hair stylist perfected the model’s hair.

MAC backstage set-up. Image Courtesy of Stacy Murphy Photography.

MAC has always been my go-to source for every event and styling shoot that I have produced while attending Academy of Art University so I was thrilled when I found out that Victor Cembellin, senior makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics, would be the lead artist for the show creating the looks together with the MAC PRO team. With over 20 years of industry experience, Cembellin’s credits include freelance editorial makeup artist, educator at the Academy of Art University and also Senior Makeup Artist for North America at MAC Cosmetics.

Victor Cembellin, Senior Artist, MAC Cosmetics

Backstage Cembellin masterfully created the looks on the models using several key products, including MAC Cosmetics Studio Waterweight Foundation, which will be released in the fall. “This season we are playing with architecture, we are playing with the shapes of each of the models eyes, ” explained Cembellin.

Victor Cembellin backstage at Academy of Art University show during NYFW. Image Courtesy of Stacy Murphy Photography

To get this look, the MAC Pro Team played with several products. ‘Baby Don’t Go’ is their sculpting product along with a cream colored base from MAC called, ‘Hush’. Instead of playing with color, the team of artists experimented more with placement, shapes and tones. It was all about sculpting and adding a dynamic shape to each of the model’s eyes.

Complementing the sculpted makeup look was a sleek, almost wet-looking hairstyle with a samurai knot dreamed up by hair guru Jon Reyman for Aveda.

Samurai Knot by Jon Reyman. Image courtesy of Stacy Murphy photography.

Jon Reyman at backstage at Academy of Art University show during NYFW. Image courtesy of Stacy Murphy Photography.

Image: Stacy Murphy Photography- Academy of Art University Fall 2015 runway show at MBFW.

I was able to steal a few minutes of Cembellin’s time to ask him a few questions, these were his responses:

Jeanie Walsh: How do you start your day?

Victor Cembellin: I enjoy taking my dog, Pinto Bean, for a walk in the morning, carving out time for a coffee run, and if I’m good, going for a quick jog.

JW: How many years now have you been the makeup artist for the Academy of Art University shows?

VC: The first time I keyed the Academy’s show was New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter in 2009. I have been privileged to connect with Simon Ungless and so many other wonderful talents. There have even been lavish editorial spreads, covers of countless magazines, and the honorable opportunity to become an instructor at the Academy of Art University itself.

JW: What was the inspiration behind the look for the Academy of Art University Fall 2015 show? Where do you draw your inspiration and ideas from?

VC: It’s the designer’s moment to showcase their signature collections, so it’s important to create a look that complements while creating continuity throughout the show. As a makeup artist, I have always considered myself a storyteller who draws inspiration from various sources. This season I wanted to tell a moody beauty story with a nod to 1990’s supermodels by using the architecture of each model’s fa­ce as the focal point.

JW: Which products did you use at the Academy of Art University Fall 2015 show?

VC: The star products for the AAU show were MAC Cosmetics Baby Don’t Go Pro Longwear Blush to sculpt cheekbones, MAC Cosmetics Coquette Eye Shadow to define the eyes and create a bit of mood and androgyny, MAC Cosmetics Hush Cream Colour Base for natural highlighting of facial contours, and MAC Cosmetics Studio Waterweight Foundation to invisibly conceal and neutralize lip tones.

JW: What are some other shows that you are creating the look for this season?

VC: MAC Cosmetics is supporting over 70 shows this season in New York alone. There are a lot of different looks, but at the same time, a lot of consistency backstage. Personally, I’ll be working on Carolina Herrera, Rachel Zoe, and Oscar de la Renta. I also designed the look for the 45 male models at Perry Ellis.

JW: Do you have any runway beauty tips that can be used for street wear beauty?

VC: One of the biggest beauty buzzwords right now is “reality.” The makeup trend is to visibly improve and reveal your best features without necessarily trying to change your look. This can easily be achieved with a product like MAC Cosmetics Studio Waterweight Foundation, which provides coverage that appears virtually invisible to the naked eye.

JW: What are the biggest beauty trends right now? What color palette and products are currently trending?

VC: Last season we celebrated minimal makeup. Bridging into fall, we’re keeping skin clean and fresh but adding signature statements like a bold lip or a strong liner. In terms of color, we’re seeing black liners replaced with graphite, pastels with shots of grey added to create a unique tonality, and the return of metallics.

 JW: What are five things you’re loving right now?

VC: 1. Matte Lips: Watch out for this trend and for the new MAC Cosmetics Retro Matte Liquid Lipsticks, which are being sported all over NYFW.

2. Individuality: Fashion and makeup have become so much about celebrating identity and creativity.
3. Classic novels: Because they force me to put the iPhone down.
4. Food: I’m attempting to become a “foodie” (although it’s a bit expensive to dine out in San Francisco).
5. Hair: I have purely done makeup for 20 years and I’m now trying to learn the basics of hair

JW: Was beauty something you were always interested in? Where do you see yourself headed in the next few years?

VC: I actually discovered beauty while performing in theatre back in high school. I immediately loved makeup’s transformational qualities. This was during the time when artists like Madonna would use fashion, hair, and makeup to redefine their identity for a brief moment. I knew I had to be a part of that magic.

Only time will tell where I’m headed. It’s so unclear where I may find myself working or travelling to next, but this marks my 20^th year with MAC Cosmetics. Another role I love is working at the Academy and lending my experiences to emerging artists who are embarking on their creative journeys.

Follow Victor Cembellin along in his career with MAC Cosmetics on Twitter at @MAC_Victor_C and on Instagram @victorcembellin.

By Jeanie Walsh, MFA Fashion Journalism

Follow my blog, 1Trendii as I share my experiences of working in PR at the School of Fashion. My cousin Stacy Murphy, a Boston-based photographer, flew in to help me capture the backstage energy to share with all of you. We created a short video of backstage footage from the Academy of Art University Fall 2015 fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW); in the video you’ll find interviews with lead makeup artist Victor Cembellin and his MAC PRO team, Aveda lead hairstylist Jon Reyman, School of Fashion Executive Director Simon Ungless and many more.

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Farnaz Golnam, M.F.A. Fashion Design, is from Kermanshah, Iran. Before coming to Academy of Art University, Golnam earned a bachelor’s degree in Civil Engineering in her home country. For her fall 2015 collection, Golnam drew inspiration from nature and incorporated three-dimensional details from flowers into the garments. The collection has a sculptural quality, which is enhanced by voluminous panels and seam detailing. The collection is executed in solid gray and black wool, and features needle-felting details that play with viewers’ perceptions of depth and dimension.

Written by: Jeanie Walsh 

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Paulina Susana Romero Valdez, M.F.A. Fashion Design, was born in Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico, and grew up in Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico. Before coming to Academy of Art University to pursue her graduate degree in fashion, Valdez earned double B.F.A. degrees in Graphic Design and Publicity. For her collection, “It’s Only Heritage,” Valdez drew inspiration from her Mexican roots as well as her fascination with baroque art and culture. The collection was executed in Baroque-style wool brocade, wool tweed, silk,cotton, hand-dyed leather, and accented with vibrant, traditional Mexican embroidery.

Written By: Jeanie Walsh

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

Getty Images-Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Collections – Runway

 Emmanuelle Ciara Jones, M.F.A. Fashion Design, was born and raised in Memphis, Tennessee. Emmanuelle holds a B.F.A. in Painting, and has interned at 440 Brannan Studio in San Francisco. Jean-Michel Basquiat—whose artwork focuses on suggestive dichotomies such as wealth versus poverty, integration versus segregation, and inner versus outer experience—has been especially inspirational to Jones as she designed her fall 2015 collection. Jones’ collection was motivated by hip-hop street culture and music and features textiles designed by Ghazaleh Khalifeh, M.F.A. Textile Design, who hails from Marin County in California. Khalifeh played off Jones’ inspiration of African textiles and voodoo, complementing silhouettes with textiles that incorporate elements of the culture, spirit and graffiti of New York’s Lower East Side in the early 1980s. All fabrics are 100% natural fibers. After earning her B.F.A. in Fashion Design from Academy of Art University, Khalifeh returned to pursue her graduate degree in Textile Design. Her work has received widespread industry recognition: In 2008, she won the prestigious $25,000 Geoffrey Beene Design Scholarship Award, and in 2009, she earned a scholarship to study at L’École de La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne in France. While in France, she was selected to display her illustrated homage to Yves Saint Laurent at the City Hall of Paris.

Photo by Getty Images.

Photo by Getty Images.

Photo by Getty Images.

Photo by Getty Images.

Photo by Getty Images.

Photo by Getty Images.

Xiaowei Liu, M.F.A. Fashion Design, was born and raised in Wuhan, China. Liu worked as a fashion design and drawing assistant at the ShenZhen Yangzhi Cheng Fashion Business Company before coming to Academy of Art University. Liu’s fall 2015 collection is a mixture of menswear and womenswear looks which center on the basic silhouette of a bomber jacket. The collection is comprised entirely of indigo fabrics custom dyed by Liu, who was inspired by the Japanese indigo patchwork technique of boro. Liu collaborated with Stella Xingyu Hu, M.F.A. Fashion Design, on the menswear portion of the collection.

Photo by Getty Images.

Photo by Getty Images.

Photo by Getty Images.

Stella Xingyu Hu, M.F.A. Fashion Design, was born in Nei Monggol, China and grew up in Delian, Liaoning Province of China. Hu collaborated with Xiaowei Liu, M.F.A. Fashion Design, on the menswear portion of a mixed menswear and womenswear collection. Hu designed knitted garments inspired by a Rubik’s cube—corner-like design details, faux leather tape and a rainbow palette are evocative of the famous three-dimensional puzzle.

Photo by Getty Images.

Photo by Getty Images.

Photo by Getty Images.

Photo by Getty Images.

Photo by Getty Images.

Photo by Getty Images.

Han Tang, M.F.A Fashion Design, grew up in Beijing, China. Tang has a B.F.A. in Interactive Media Design from Jilin College of the Arts. Tang has worked as an illustrator for the Chinese Children’s Newspaper, a packaging design intern for Hainan Boswell, and as a graphic design assistant for Idea Pool Group in Beijing. She used wool and silk and was inspired by Italian photographer Yvonne De Rosa and her series of dark photographs. Tang focused on smooth lines and strong, elegant silhouettes for the shoulders and sleeves of her designs, and collaborated with Tam Nguyen, M.F.A. Textile Design, who hails from Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tam has a B.F.A. in Fashion Design from Columbia College Chicago, has interned for Anthropologie as a visual display coordinator, and often does freelance textile work. Nguyen is a recipient of the Columbia College Chicago December 2011 Vivian Price Scholarship and participated in the May 2012 Fashion Columbia juried show, which benefitted the Columbia Scholarship fund. The textiles were inspired by the decaying and chipping surfaces of abandoned houses. Her designs capture the texture of peeling and naturally weathered exteriors.

Academy of Art University’s Fashion Journalism Program Showcases an Interactive Installation at Open House

Fashion journalism is a portfolio of ever-evolving vocabulary and tools.  Just as ‘selfie’ has become a new word in the dictionary. Journalists today use innovative techniques from visual reporting via Instagram and Vine to social journalism via Facebook, Tumblr and Twitter, to convey their stories to the masses.  Academy of Art University has always been at the intersection of new technologies and arts, and this semester’s Open House/Open Studio is no exception.

In partnership with SocialPulp - an interactive installation fed by Instagram and Twitter – images and tweets captured by M.A. Fashion Journalism students in real time will be moderated and projected on the second floor of Polk 625 (School of Fashion, Room 202) on Saturday, March 7th from 9 am – 3 pm. Share your best moments from the School of Fashion Open House/Open Studio via your Instagram and Twitter accounts using #aaufashion and witness the photojournalism installation expand and evolve throughout the day!

Zhangchi Wang, B.F.A., Fashion Design, 2012

Zhangchi Wang, B.F.A. Fashion Design 2012 alumna has just recently received a full time-position at Saint Laurent Paris after being awarded a French exchange opportunity to study in Paris. Wang began as an intern at Saint Laurent and now is working as a 3D Design Assistant. She catches us up on everything she’s been doing since graduation.

Malcolm Thomas: What did you study at the School of Fashion?

Zhangchi Wang: I studied Womenswear Design, and also took applied textile classes until level 4.

MT: Tell us about what you have been doing since graduation and about your internship experience in Paris. 

ZW: After graduating I left San Francisco for Paris and spent a year at Studio Berçot. Right after that I started my internship at Saint Laurent, which lasted for a year.

MT: What was an average day for you at Saint Laurent? Any mistakes you learned from your experience as an intern? 

ZW:  My responsibilities include researching volume, silhouette and design details through cutting, draping and pattern making. In short, I proposed designs in 3D manner. Everyday, every project could be a challenge. It involves problem solving, and there’s always techniques that I need to learn.

MT: Do you have any role models within the company?

ZW:  There are a lot of role models. I respect our team leader who is never impatient under intense pressure and manages to stay energetic.

MT: Funny stories? 

ZW: My manager who has worked for Yohji, Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier told me she had to Google who Lady Gaga was when Lady Gaga had an interview with Gaultier.

MT: What do you love about Saint Laurent? 

ZW: The quality and the extremely high standard of their products, as well as the amount of work and attention they devote to their creative process.

MT: Where do you find inspiration?  

ZW: The city itself brings around endless inspiration. As well as countless exhibitions and performances.

MT: Any fashion icons? 

ZW: Yohji Yamamoto, Madam Gres, Alaia, Viktor & Rolf.

MT: Where do you see yourself in 10 years?

ZW: Something I have recently realized is that I can hardly foresee anything. There could be changes the following moment. It is difficult to say, but I shall always keep my hands busy either handling fabric, a pencil or maybe at some point I will be playing around with plaster, wood or paper. There are lots of possibilities.

MT: What advice would you give to current students? 

ZW: Please never use “I want to sew” as a reason to abandon your CDFP classes because one day you will find that the lack of technique is what stops you from being creative.

MT: Anything else you would like to share?

ZW: I miss being a student at the Academy of Art University because French fashion schools are very independent. It is such a precious opportunity to have a lot of different majors within one school. I have learned quite a bit from my friends in Industrial Design, Photography etc. Furthermore, Academy of Art University has the best teachers in the School of Fashion.

Pictures from Paris. Image: Zhangchi Wang

Auguste Rodin’s “The Thinker” monument outside the Rodin Museum. Image: Zhangchi Wang

A Parisian street at sunset. Image: Zhangchi Wang

By: Malcolm Thomas

       Fashion Journalism students review hottest trends for F/W 2015 season.

L-R: Barbara Casasola, Derek Lam, Victoria Beckham, Carolina Herrera, and Alexander McQueen.

L-R: Alice+Olivia, Julien MacDonald, Marc Jacobs, Marchesa and Carolina Herrera.

Beauty Trend: Berry, Plum and Oxblood Lips

Luscious lips in the shades of berry, deep burgundy, oxblood and black, paired with matte, velvety skin, bold and beautifully defined eyebrows, faintly flushed cheeks, came forth as a key beauty trend for Fall/ Winter 2015. Severely pulled-back super sleek hair tied in a pony complements the bold lip colors.

Marchesa whisked audiences away with a whimsical Gatsby-like look through glamorous faux bobs and soft, shiny waves to go with the dark lips. Julien MacDonald added radiance to the berry lip with high-shine gloss, which stood out because of the neutral cheeks.

L-R: Marc Jacobs, Rebecca Minkoff, Rebecca Taylor, BCBG, and Altuzarra.

Accessory Trend: Over-The-Knee (OTK) Boots

Call them thigh skimming, elongating or simply statement accessories, OTK boots are here to dictate winter fashion. Their bold and sleek appearance is a result of faux or suede fabrics, and they can nonchalantly be paired with anything that ends at mid-thigh.

Rebecca Taylor mixes up textures by pairing a sheer, frilly dress with sleek leather while Rebecca Minkoff adds playfulness through fringes on the boots, to the striped sweater dress.

Written By:  Namrata Loka

Namrata Loka is currently a student in FSH 617 Intro to Fashion Journalism class.

On Saturday, March 7, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Camelia Skikos, part time instructor in the School of Fashion, and Dahae Kim, 2009 B.F.A. Menswear Design Alumna, debuted their Fall/Winter 2015 collaborative collection at Concept Los Angeles Fashion Week. This was the first time these two San Francisco designers have collaborated. While staying true to their signature styles and tailoring while sharing the inspiration of the art of Victor Vasarely, they investigated ways of rendering the concept of duality, using techniques involving geometric shapes, contrasting fabrics like silk and wool, soft and hard, shiny and matte.

The show garnered attention from Women’s Wear Daily, the Los Angels Times, SF Racked, and other publications.

In 2003, Camelia Skikos moved to San Francisco where she accepted a position as a head designer at Levi Strauss. During that time, she also designed for GAP, and began teaching Fashion Design in the School of Fashion . She launched her eponymous label in 2010 and won the San Francisco Award for Best Women’s Wear Designer in 2011.

Originally from South Korea, WHICHKIM’s creator Dahae Kim received a B.F.A. in Menswear Design from the Academy of Art University in 2009. She received a scholarship from the CFDA for her work as a student, and in 2012 won the San Francisco Award for Best Emerging Menswear Designer of the Year. She has also taught fashion design at the Raffles International College in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

In addition to your collaborative inspiration of the art of Victor Vasarely, what else inspired you for this collection?

Dahae Kim: This collection began with my inspiration of a trip to London, how I felt at that time, what I was going through, and how London healed me. I kept thinking about every spot I have been to, the smell of London, the clouds, and my feeling during the trip. 
London came to me as a strong, calm and determined city. And the layers of clouds were to me like layers of our thoughts and feelings. 
I wanted to translate that in a strong and sharp figure in calm attitude with layers of grey scale. I focused on the shape of lines, a strong contrast of black and white, and layers of details.

Camelia Skikos: Besides Victor Vasarely, I was inspired by Bridget Riley and the idea of duality in general. I interpreted my thoughts and views on this matter trough my choices of fabrics, shapes and colors. Using techniques involving geometric shapes, contrasting fabrics such as silk and wool, soft and hard, shiny and matte, I was trying to investigate possible ways of rendering the concept of duality. Besides contrasts like black/white, soft/hard, curvy/angular, I also wanted to add a little more dimension to my collection by adding the masculine/ feminine contrasting element. That is when I thought of including some menswear pieces and I started to collaborate with Dahae. She was my student a few years ago and I remembered that she always had very strong and similar esthetics as mine and she was very adaptable and fast.

Tell us about the collaboration process of Camelia Skikos + WHICHKIM.

Dahae Kim: When I spoke to Camelia, she had a black and white color story with contrast ideas as well so the collaboration was made easier. I designed my collection and she did as well, we showed each other our collections, got the ideas from our visions, and edited together. Camelia challenged me, which was great for me. Our design process was to share fabrication and design ideas to have a cohesive collection. Her understanding in my vision and my idea of tailoring was very appreciative. This is my first time collaborating with another designer, and especially with a womenswear designer. I must say it has more benefits than challenges when both designers have a similar style and an understanding of the other designer’s aesthetic. No one tried to change the other designer’s original ideas.  It was simply editing fabrication and shape of line down to emerge. Overall, WHICHKIM’s vision and style was well expressed so I am happy.

Camelia Skikos: I wanted to work with a menswear designer that has a good understanding of the design process and who could also adapt to my design philosophy and be fast in the same time as I had a deadline to be at LAFW. I showed Dahae the inspiration images, my sketches of the designs I did for womenswear and we talked about the concept and the ideas for this collection. She was very responsive and came up with great ideas for menswear that would fit with my collection. We also worked on editing and making everything cohesive. Although she was in Korea at the time, we communicated very well via Skype and email, and in just a few weeks she had finished everything in time for the LAFW.

We also collaborated with FYUSE, a company that sponsored our participation in LAFW. I always like to collaborate with other designers or artists as it brings more dimension and something new to each collection.

In a past collection, I collaborated with another alumni from Academy of Art University, Milos Vlaski, who does photography. He designed the textile for my SS 2014 collection. He studied cinematography and he finished M.F.A. in 2008. He designed the fabrics for this collection and also made a cool video. I introduced him to the Fyuse team so he is now working with them doing all their videos, Fyuses and photography. He was also with us at LAFW to shoot our collection for Fyuse. Lastly, the styling of our collection was done by Liz Baca who is currently teaching styling at the Academy of Art University. She was styling our entire collection at the LAFW and also for our photo shoots.

Website: Camelia Skikos

Instagram: @cameliaskikos

Website: WHICHKIM

Instagram: @whichkim_official

The designers: From left: José Dojaquez, 2014 BFA Knitwear Design, Jordan Rae Epstein, 2014 BFA Childrenswear Design, and Yuko Okudaira, 2014 BFA Fashion Design.

Photos by Rob Curry.

Every year a group of designers from the graduating class at the School of Fashion are granted the opportunity to share their work in front an esteemed audience at the Graduation Fashion Show in San Francisco. From that group,  a select crop of recipients are awarded the Paris Sister City Scholarship Exchange, which is a foreign exchange opportunity for student designers to study in Paris at Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne or Studio Berçot. Nine months into their year-long exchange program, 2014 Paris Sister City Scholarship Exchange students Jordan Rae Epstein, 2014 BFA Childrenswear Design; José Dojaquez, 2014 BFA Knitwear Design; and Yuko Okudaira, 2014 BFA Fashion Design, fill us in what they’ve been up to overseas.

Malcolm Thomas: How is Paris?

José Dojaquez: Paris is truly amazing. It is such a beautiful and dynamic city with many things to do and new people to meet. Sometimes it’s easy to take living here for granted, but once in a while, when I get some free time, I stop and just look around. Walking down the Seine with the sunset in the background has been one of the most amazing things I have ever experienced!

Yuko Okudaira: Paris is gorgeous. I love it especially at a night, and in the rain.

Jordan Rae Epstein: I love it. Paris is incredibly beautiful and inspiring. Once José and I found an apartment, signed for a bank, and received a French cell phone (essentially became a documented person), it’s been gravy. I am finally getting the hang of school, I’m not afraid of grocery shopping, and have met some amazing people. I feel extremely lucky to have this opportunity here and hope to stay after I complete the school year.

The designers: From left: José Dojaquez, 2014 BFA Knitwear Design, Jordan Rae Epstein, 2014 BFA Childrenswear Design, and Yuko Okudaira, 2014 BFA Fashion Design with a friend at a Halloween party in Paris.

MT: What is your favorite thing about being in Paris?

JD: I think so far my favorite thing about Paris is the friends I’ve managed to make. People don’t give Parisian people enough credit. So far I’ve had little trouble with them, and I’ve generally found that I really like the people here.

YO: I love when it’s fashion week. You see models and the most fashionable people on the streets.

JRE: Walking around. French architecture, streets, monuments, etc., have a much deeper and richer history in comparison to the United States. To me, everything looks like a movie and has a romantic charm.

Yuko Okudaira, 2014 BFA Fashion Design, relaxing on a bench in Paris.

MT: What is the most exciting thing that has happened to you in Paris?

JD: The most exciting thing that has happened to me in Paris is probably seeing Karl Lagerfeld getting out of his car. Sounds a bit silly, but it was literally my first week in Paris and I was very star-struck.

YO: Seeing Pete Doherty everyday. He lived around corner from my first apartment in Pigalle.

JRE: A few things:

1. When my “dossier” (portfolio) was chosen for display at my school’s open house. My project “flou” (creative cutting) will be presented alongside a few others for the public and industry visitors to see.
2. Riding on my boyfriend’s motorcycle for the first time. One of our first dates was spent taking a tour of Paris (cliché…perhaps). Stupidly, I was trying to fulfill my Parisienne fantasies of riding in the back of a motorcycle wearing a skirt that would flow in the wind—a (sort of) Carrie Bradshaw moment…poor choices. Typical American.
3. I am thrilled to be interning for Saint Laurent during Paris Fashion Week. These types of opportunities are not as easily available in the US and are especially rare if you are living in San Francisco. I am looking forward to helping in the showrooms as well as observing the whole process.

MT: Have you traveled to other cities?

JD: So far I’ve only been to Antwerp. I went there with a friend who goes to the Royal College of Fine Arts there and I loved the city. He managed to get me a private tour of the school, which was very inspiring. At some point I thought about going to this school, but it’s a four-year program and I think I’m very done with school now, haha.

YO: I haven’t.

JRE: London! The city was such a nice break from school and revived me after feeling overwhelmed with the rapid adjustment. I am planning a few trips for the spring and summer. Right now, it’s looking like Berlin, Amsterdam, all over Italy, and Nice.

MT: How is the school compared to the School of Fashion at AAU?

JD: School here is extremely different than the way it is in San Francisco. People are a lot more relaxed, but that’s not always a good thing. I’ve learned that it is a very French thing to change up schedules and classes without enough notice. It is also very fast-paced. We do entire projects in about one week and then move onto the next one. I’m not enjoying this very much as I feel I haven’t really been getting a lot of feedback, whether it is good or bad. The great thing about our school here, however, is that it is very well connected and they offer you many opportunities. Right now I’m working as a teacher assistant in the school, helping students from the first year do some knits and crotchet. It is very amazing to be able to have an opportunity like this!

YO: It’s different. It’s more relaxed and unstructured.

JRE: There are many similarities and differences, as with anything. I would say that it is a 50/50 split. Both schools have high expectations, a strong student body, and the drive towards preparing their students to be industry ready.

ECSCP is very technical. The students excel in the draping and sewing classes, finding new ways to cut and create new forms. I was beyond impressed with everyone’s jacket after our first hand-in. The skill level was so inspiring and definitely put a fire under my ass!

ECSCP demands more sewing, samples, and technical process work, whereas AAU required much more drawing, storytelling, and computer work. Process is key in both schools but organized differently. My portfolio from the Academy is much more consolidated in comparison to my developing dossier at ECSCP. My AAU sketchbooks were personalized “mind dumps” of images/illustrations, fabric samples, color swatches, sewn samples, etc.—however I wanted to organize it was acceptable. Chambre Syndicale requires an organized research binder, which then merges into a condensed dossier, focusing and reflecting your process work. It was challenging at first to adapt to a new way of thinking, but I am beginning discover a happy medium that I believe has begun to strengthen my portfolio.

Yuko Okudaira, 2014 BFA Fashion Design, modeling in a student fashion show .

MT: What do you miss most about San Francisco?

JD: I miss everything about San Francisco. I miss the food, the places, the clubs, the people. Most of all, though, I miss my friends from there.

YO: I miss the weather, the fog, people, energy, dogs in parks, good cheap food: tacos, donuts, Saigon sandwiches, Chinese food, etc.

JRE: I miss being so close to my friends and family as well as the [easy-going lifestyle].

MT: Favorite memory of the School of Fashion at AAU?

JD: My favorite memory is definitely seeing my collection walking down the runway. That was such a big sigh of relief when it was all done and it was just amazing to be able to go have a celebratory drink after without having to worry about deadlines.

YO: I miss working late at the Polk Street building. I miss my friends in the School of Fashion.

JRE: I loved my final year at AAU and creating my senior collection. I found the year to be the most exciting, rewarding, and creative year in school. We had such a solid group of graduates that year and many hilarious moments in the 5^th floor studio. On top of that, watching the children walk down the runway affirmed my desire to want to continue in design.

MT: When do you return to the US and what are your plans when you return?

JD: So far I have no plans to return. I’m definitely thinking about staying in Europe, possibly Stockholm, Barcelona or Berlin. Of course, staying in Paris for as long as I can is the goal, but if not, I think I want to go back to live in Mexico, since I haven’t been living there for almost eight years.

YO: I don’t know when I will be returning to the US. After I finish with school in Paris, I’d like to get an internship here and will come back to the States after.

JRE: At the moment, I have no immediate plans to move back. I would love to extend my stay and try to find work.

MT: Any advice for the next group going to Paris?

JD: Definitely know French. At Studio Berçot they will not speak to you in English. Making friends that can translate for you is the best option, but being able to communicate ideas is extremely hard if you’re not very comfortable with the French language. You’ll also have to have a very thick skin because the way they design in Paris is very different from the way they do in SF. You will definitely reconsider your design aesthetics. Just have a very open mind.

JRE: If you can invest your time and money into French lessons, do so. Look into housing options prior to arriving. The apartment market is incredibly competitive and difficult as a foreign student. Do not adhere to cultural stereotypes. Be tolerant of things that may feel different—keeping an open mind and not taking things personally is the key to success in a foreign country. Read about the French education system in comparison to American schooling. There is a huge difference in the way that the classroom is run, grades are marked, your relationships with professors, etc. If you have a better understanding of the differences from the get-go, you will ease right in. Thicken your skin and be able to have a sense of humor.

Au- revoir!

By: Malcolm Thomas